DAY ONE
5 p.m. to 7 p.m. Dinner: Departing the airport?s rental-car row, make a left on Tropicana Avenue, drive a mile, then go right on Koval Lane. This road, running parallel to the Strip, takes you directly to the little Ellis Island Casino.
You won?t find this casino featured in the travel guides, but its caf? serves the best meal deal in Las Vegas: a complete steak dinner for just $4.95. Though it?s not on the menu, it?s available 24 hours a day. Ellis Island is also a microbrewery, and homemade beers and root beer are just $1 if you buy them at the bar and carry them in (which you can do in most Las Vegas restaurants). Two steaks and two drinks: $12.
7 p.m. to 8 p.m. Take a Strip Tour/Then Check In: Take a left on Flamingo, then head to the Strip and one of the most famous intersections in the world. To the left is Paris and its 460-foot replica of the Eiffel Tower, and Bellagio is across the street. To the right is the world-renowned Caesars Palace and the massive Colosseum, where Celine Dion plays nightly. Go right on the Strip. You?ll pass the Mirage?catalyst for the ?New Las Vegas? when it debuted in 1989?and the sprawling Venetian. Slightly beyond are the steel girders that will be the $2 billion megaresort Wynn Las Vegas (formerly Le Reve) when it opens in 2005. You?ve seen these places on TV and in the movies, now they flank you on either side.
As you reach the north end of the Strip, the older resorts have more familiar names: Riviera, Stardust, Circus Circus, Sahara. You?ll have no trouble locating your hotel. Just look up; the Stratosphere Tower looms ahead. Check in, freshen up, and relax. Strip tour: $0.
8 p.m. to 11 p.m. Stratosphere Tower: Before beginning the evening, there are two things you need to do. First, call the Plaza Casino (702/386-2110) and make reservations for dinner at 6:30 on the final night of your trip at the Center Stage restaurant. And second, page through Showbiz magazine (available in your hotel room) to find the coupon for the Hard Rock Casino?s ?Six Pack,? which is found in this periodical exclusively; you?ll need it on Day Two. Now head to the Stratosphere?s observation tower, clutching the funbook that?s distributed to hotel guests. It includes a coupon for half off tower admission, which lowers the price to $4. Ride the high-speed, double-decker elevator to the 107th floor and spend an hour atop the tallest building west of the Mississippi. Of the two rides at the top, the High Roller (coaster) is a snore. But for adrenaline junkies, the Big Shot is an instant rush 1,000 feet up. It?s $8 to ride. And why not do it twice, using the funbook coupon for a $1 re-ride?
Kick back and have a cold drink in the lounge on the mezzanine overlooking the revolving Top of the World restaurant. Drinks run from $4.25 to $7, but the funbook has a two-for-one drink coupon.
Finish the evening by taking in a free show in the Images Cabaret. Hang out, have a cocktail, and listen to some great music till it?s time to call it a night. Tower, two rides, two re-rides, drinks: $41.
DAY TWO
This is a big day, jam-packed with museum hopping, souvenir collecting, a slot tournament, and a show. The main event is a trip to the area?s famous Hoover Dam.
9 a.m. to 10 a.m. Breakfast: The trip to Hoover Dam begins at Tropicana and the Strip. Drive to the Tropicana, park in the casino?s east lot, and walk next door to the San Remo for steak and eggs, served in the coffee shop for $4.95. There?s also an excellent around-the-clock $4.95 prime rib if you?re in the mood. Breakfast: $13.
10 a.m. to noon Tropicana/MGM Grand: Walk back to the Tropicana and head to one of two free-pull slot machines located off the walkways from MGM Grand and Excalibur. The free spin can yield dinners, show tickets, even a new car, but don?t count on those. You?ll probably win two good perks: a free souvenir deck of cards with the Tropicana logo and tickets for the Trop?s Casino Legends Hall of Fame museum (plus a coupon for a two-for-one drink that you?ll use later).
The Hall of Fame displays 15,000 items from over 700 casinos (550 of which no longer exist), including matchbooks, a showgirl dressing room, videos of casino implosions, 13,000 gambling chips, and a fascinating look at the Nevada ?Black Book? of excluded persons (mobsters and cheats). Regular admission is $6.95, but it?s free with the coupon.
Time your museum exit for 10:50 a.m., then hotfoot it upstairs to catch the 11 a.m. exotic-bird show in the Tropics Lounge. The birds are stunning and the show is free.
Before going back to the car, use your coupon to grab a couple of drinks from the bar and take the overhead walkway to the MGM Grand. An escalator just inside takes you directly to the Grand?s 5,345-square-foot, multilevel lion habitat. This is a 5-to-10-minute diversion; admission is free. Souvenir, museum, bird show, habitat, two drinks: $3.
Noon to 12:45 p.m. Hard Rock: Head east on Tropicana, take a left on Paradise, and you?ll run into the Hard Rock Casino. Rock-and-roll themed and packed with music-related displays and memorabilia, this prototype of the new breed of supertrendy Las Vegas casinos is worth a half-hour tour. Bring the coupon from Showbiz magazine to the Backstage Pass booth to get a great, free shot-glass souvenir. Tour and souvenir: $0.
12:45 p.m. to 1:30 p.m. Liberace Museum: Get back on Tropicana and continue east for two-and-a-half miles to the Liberace Museum. Liberace was a one-man walking advertisement for the extravagance, flamboyance, and uninhibited tastelessness usually associated with his adopted city, and his museum reflects it all. The $12 admission is reduced by $2 when you present the coupon that appears in the freebie magazines. Museum admissions: $20.
1:30 p.m. to 2:30 p.m. Lunch: Continue east on Tropicana for several miles to the freeway (I-515) and head south. The dam is 30 minutes from here, which leaves time for another only-in-Las Vegas dining deal. Take exit 64 and drive toward the marquee of Sunset Station. There?s plenty of good-value dining in the Sunset Station resort, but not as good as in the dining room at the Gold Rush, the little casino next door. Everything on the menu is a bargain, but the best play is the giant hamburger with fixings and fries for $1.99. Two burgers and drinks: $8.
2:30 p.m. to 5 p.m. Hoover Dam: Get back on the highway and follow the signs to the dam. The sheer majesty of this construction marvel is worth the trip by itself, but there?s also the tri-level visitor center featuring exhibits on the dam?s history and engineering and a 25-minute movie chronicling the dam?s construction. Since 9/11, visitors can no longer go into the dam on the traditional tour. However, a self-guided Discovery Tour has been substituted. Tickets are sold until 4:30 p.m., and the dam closes at 5. Getting there by 3 p.m. should allow you to see everything. Admission is $10 and includes the visitor center and access to the top of the dam. Parking is an additional $5. Total charges: $25.
5 p.m. to 6:30 p.m. Aladdin Slot Tournament: Retrace your route back to the city and stop at the Aladdin, the second casino you encounter after turning right onto the Strip from Tropicana. You?re going to play a slot tournament.
Gamble? Well, yes, but there?s a method to the madness. The entry fee for the Aladdin?s mini-slot tourney is $25. You play a 15-minute round during which the $25 is the most you can lose. If you get lucky and score high, you can win cash prizes, including the grand prize: a free-pull on every dollar slot in the casino. But the real value is in the perks that come with the entry.
For starters, you get $10 in free-play on a real machine. Play the $10 and cash out what?s left. You also get $20 in food credits, $20 off two show tickets, and two free desserts at Starbucks. Cost: variable, depending on slot-play return?$16 is the average outlay ($25 maximum).
6:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. Dinner and Show: After a long day of sightseeing and traveling, head to Aladdin?s Spice Market Buffet, one of Las Vegas?s top three, with abundant meats and fresh seafood, and sinful desserts. At $20 it?s also pricey, but the $20 food credit chops it down to a bargain. The show, Society of Seven, is top-rate music/comic/variety, good for all ages and most tastes, and well priced at $35 before the discount. Time is a little tight here, since the show begins at 8 p.m. Send one person to get the show tickets, while the other gets a table in the buffet.
Get your free dessert after the show, then head back to the Stratosphere. Stop at any casino if you aren?t yet ready for bed. Dinner, show, and desserts (after credits): $70.